Textile experts at Heriot-Watt University, located in the Scottish Borders, are leading a new initiative aimed at raising environmental awareness among fashion labels and consumers. The project, directed by Dr. Lisa Macintyre, Associate Professor of Textiles at the University’s School of Textiles and Design, has focused on developing the world’s first visual "fiber fragmentation scale."

The scale, a five-point system, visually measures the quantity of fiber fragments shed from clothing materials. Grade one indicates the highest level of shedding, while grade five represents the lowest. This innovative method offers a quicker and more affordable alternative for evaluating large volumes of textiles compared to traditional techniques, such as those set by the International Organization for Standardization (ISO).

“The microplastics problem is massive,” says Dr. Macintyre. “The fashion and textiles industry is a major source of secondary microplastics in the environment, with fibers like polyester and nylon breaking off from clothing. Our new scale could empower manufacturers to make informed decisions about materials and help consumers understand the environmental impact of their clothing choices.”

Testing involved using a machine called a "rotawash," which simulates a washing cycle. Textile samples were placed in eight separate canisters filled with water, churned, and then filtered to assess fiber shedding. Over two years, 46 testers from the fashion industry, university students, and the public graded around 100 samples, validating the scale's effectiveness.

The findings, published in the journal Plastics, outline how the fiber fragmentation scale could revolutionize the industry. If adopted, this scale may appear on clothing labels, allowing consumers to easily gauge the environmental footprint of their garments, similar to how food labels display nutritional information.