The Fall/Winter collection for 2024-2025 from Turkish denim mill, Orta, introduces a new denim called Bio Awake. This denim is dyed using BioBlack TX, a special black pigment from Nature Coatings. Unlike regular black dye derived from petroleum, BioBlack TX is 100 percent bio-based, certified, and even helps reduce carbon. It’s a more eco-friendly alternative.
Orta is taking BioBlack TX and using it in two new ways: for coating the fabric and for warp dyeing. This application in the textile industry is a first and was launched at the Kingpins Amsterdam event in April.
BioBlack TX is made using wood waste that comes from FSC certified sources. These sources are linked to sustainable forests, and this wood waste is from various industries like lumber, paper, furniture, and flooring. The pigment is produced in a circular system, which means it’s a closed-loop process with steam being the only by-product. This steam is captured and used to power parts of the production facility.
The best part is that BioBlack TX doesn’t use any fossil fuels, and it’s been tested to make sure it’s safe to touch and wear. There are no harmful chemicals in it, making it a safe choice. Plus, the manufacturing process doesn’t involve burning the wood waste or adding extra chemicals.
Bio Awake is an important step for Orta’s Bluesky mission to create denim that’s kinder to the environment and society. They believe it’s a great opportunity to set an example for the industry, showing how denim can be waste-free and made with natural materials.
Dr. Sedef Uncu Aki, who leads various departments at Orta, spoke about this effort, saying it’s time to rethink how they design denim. This change should be based on principles that regenerate resources and work together quickly.
Nature Coatings, the company behind BioBlack TX, recently got $2.45 million in funding to make more of this pigment. They want to expand how much they can make, strengthen their team, and set up a worldwide distribution network. This investment was led by Regeneration.VC and The 22 Fund, with even actor Leonardo DiCaprio supporting it.
BioBlack TX was a big part of Levi’s Spring/Summer 2023 WellThread collection. It was used for floral designs. Nature Coatings’ CEO, Jane Palmer, worked with Levi’s material and design teams to develop this pigment over a few years. It’s also been used by other brands like the Kering Group, Jack & Jones, and Selected Homme.
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