Better Cotton, a leading cotton sustainability initiative, has joined forces with the Make The Label Count (MTLC) coalition to advocate for a critical review of the European Commission’s (EC) Product Environmental Footprint (PEF) methodology for fashion and textiles.

The coalition, supported by over 50 organizations from natural fibre and environmental sectors, seeks to improve sustainability, data accuracy, and ensure that the PEF framework aligns with EU sustainability strategies.

“Make the Label Count is a pivotal movement,” said Hélène Bohyn, policy and advocacy manager at Better Cotton. “The EU’s chosen methodology will shape how sustainability is communicated across our industry and help eradicate greenwashing.”

MTLC argues that the current PEF framework inadequately accounts for environmental impacts, particularly those related to fossil fuel usage, microplastic release, biodegradability, and renewability—areas where natural fibres excel. Without addressing these gaps, the framework risks promoting synthetic fibres linked to fast fashion and resource overconsumption under a misleading guise of sustainability.

The coalition cautions that an unmodified PEF standard could conflict with EU environmental goals and hinder the transition to a circular economy. MTLC, which includes members like the International Cotton Association and the National Cotton Council of America, remains committed to transparent, reliable evaluations that differentiate between renewable and non-renewable materials.