The Aid by Trade Foundation (AbTF) has joined the "Make the Label Count" initiative, a coalition aimed at ensuring fair and transparent sustainability evaluations for textile products in the EU. Founded by Prof. Dr. Michael Otto, AbTF joins natural fiber manufacturers, standards organizations, and environmental advocates in calling for credible, balanced assessments that properly recognize the benefits of natural fibers like biodegradable cotton and recyclable cashmere.

The coalition was established in response to the EU's Product Environmental Footprint Category Rules (PEFCRs), which are intended to standardize how product environmental impacts are measured. However, the PEF system has drawn criticism for favoring synthetic fibers like polyester, derived from fossil fuels, while not adequately accounting for the eco-friendly attributes of natural fibers.

AbTF's managing director, Tina Stridde, welcomed the EU’s efforts to curb greenwashing but expressed concern that the current PEF framework "misleads consumers by favoring textile fibers made from fossil fuels, placing natural, biodegradable fibers at a disadvantage."

Make the Label Count spokesperson, Dalena White, echoed these concerns, highlighting the environmental impact of synthetic fibers, which contribute to plastic waste and microplastic pollution. The coalition is calling for the PEF framework to consider factors such as microplastic emissions, plastic waste, and the recyclability of materials.